Grub Street

‘Edible Manhattan’ Haunted by Ghosts of New York Restaurants Past

Daniel Maurer — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 18:18:42 -0500

In the new issue of Edible Manhattan, selections of which are now online, Regina Schrambling dusts off an old copy of Duncan Hines’s Adventures in Good Eating (the Zagat of its day), and is startled by how different the New York dining scene was 50 years ago. Duncan recommends restaurants trafficking in cuisines that are underrepresented today (Belgian, Austrian, German, Danish, Hungarian, Polish, and Swedish), and hardly makes mention of Mexican, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, Cuban, Caribbean, and the like. There are few celebrity chefs mentioned (back then the emphasis was on the restaurateurs and the clientele), and he mentions very few restaurants south of 32nd Street. “Overall,” writes Schrambling, “Hines reveled in a world of filet of sole Nicoise, chateaubriand, souffle aux parfumes, veal scallops Newport and cassoulet Toulousaine.” Why do we see this book being a good reference for a restaurateur looking to open something hot and hip?

Time Capsule [Edible Manhattan]

Cracked Out

Daniel Maurer — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 17:45:25 -0500

Calexico, you can keep calling your chipotle sauce “crack sauce.” Milkofuku, we’ll let you have “crack pie.” But after this, let’s stop, mmkay?

John Dory Booked Through November

Daniel Maurer — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 17:29:56 -0500

John Dory is fully booked until December 4. But don’t despair, they’re taking walk-ins — dinner at the bar is first-come, first-serve. Let the desperate elbowing begin. Speaking of the Dory, Andrea Strong, contemplating the opening of Flex Mussels, has a question to ask: “Is fish the new pork?”

Coming Soon: Grandaisy Tribeca

Alexandra Vallis — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 17:00:01 -0500

Same bread, bigger bakery.

While discussing his New York Diet with us last week, Ed Levine broke our hearts with the news that our go-to upper-crust pizza stop, Grandaisy Bakery on Sullivan Street, had lost its lease. (Levine frequents the uptown location.) It's true, a Grandaisy rep told us, but our mozzarella sandwich is safe through 2009. And Grandaisy will open a new, larger location at 250 West Broadway (near Beach Street) in as little as six weeks, barring construction issues. Eventually, all baking will be done at the new location, but Grandaisy will keep the ovens burning in Soho throughout the new year.

Manhattan’s Most Blatantly Illegal Club Is Definitely Gone for Good

Daniel Maurer — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 16:50:30 -0500

The State Liquor Authority has made it official and, in its November 6 meeting, officially revoked the liquor license belonging to Hush. This was a mere formality, since the venue closed soon after two stabbings and a shooting there two years ago — nevertheless it gives us a chance to wonder whether such an unabashedly depraved club, where parties would wind down at noon the next day, could ever exist again in central Manhattan? For those who aren’t familiar with it (and if you’re a respectable citizen, you aren’t), it was a hip-hop after-hours in a remote, ramshackle Midtown West basement where strippers (and, let’s face it, prosties) worked the floor though the place didn't bother securing an adult-use license. Suffice it to say, even in the decidedly post-Giuliani year of 2006, this joint made Siberia look like the Harvard Club. The SLA fined 129 licensees for a total of $325,700 in its most recent meeting — the vote on Club Hush had to be the easiest one.

‘Top Chef’ Exit Interview: Episode Two

Michael Alan Connelly — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 16:27:30 -0500

Top Chef’s war against the young waged on last night, as 28-year-old Jill Snyder got the boot while the more mature (but not necessarily more talented) Ariane lived to see another elimination challenge. After serving up a truly scary hot-dog spring roll in the Quickfire, Jill fell flat with her ostrich-egg quiche, which one diner described as “dog food.” After spending a night laughing at the episode with friends, the tired ex-cheftestant spoke with us this morning about the joys of cooking in Craft’s kitchen and why Ariane should have gone home instead.

Top Chef's Jill, before she packed her knives.Photo: Courtesy of Bravo

Were you watching the show last night?
I just watched it with three or four people. I was on the phone a bit, with my mom and my sister.

Was it emotional to watch it? Do you feel like it’s in the past?
Well, it is in the past, but I’m going to have to read the blogs. I was told not to, but I’m going to anyway…

It was a New American challenge. Do you stand by your choice to use an ostrich egg?
Originally, I wanted to make a dessert for that challenge, but everybody got shuffled around. I can do an entrée — I wasn’t worried about that part — but we’d gone to the Whole Foods, and I saw these ostrich eggs, and they struck me as a really interesting ingredient. The challenge was for lunch, and a quiche is very popular, so I went with using a really original ingredient to do a somewhat common dish. There’s a fair amount of skill involved in that, setting the quiche up in the water bath, having it set up just right. And I didn’t get any points for that, so I was a little surprised.

Of course you tasted it — did you think the flavors came together?
Yes! I didn’t have a problem with the flavors. Grilled Maitake mushrooms, asparagus, and Gruyère cheese — those go great together.

Your dish was not alone in being criticized, but was it the worst one there?
I hate to go back to Ariane, but they spit hers out — nobody even ate hers. It was bad, and the presentation was … you know, it was in a martini glass … When it comes down to it, it was between me and her, and I’m really surprised that that was the way it went.

How was it cooking in Craft? Was that an awe-inspiring experience?
Yeah, Tom’s kitchen is amazing. I’ve worked in a lot of different kitchens, and that was probably the nicest kitchen. It was very organized, everything made sense.

Did it have any special features you haven’t seen anywhere else?
I haven’t worked with a range like his. He had really nice convenient walk-ins, a whole pastry area to themselves…

Do you think that Tom was especially hard on this challenge, just in terms of judging, because it was his restaurant?
I think I got better feedback from Tom than from anyone else. Because it was his own restaurant, he was probably a little tougher than usual.

What have you been up to since the show?
Back to work at Red Maple [in Baltimore]. I’m now interviewing at some other spots because I feel like I want to move on, work somewhere else, or work under another chef, just to keep learning.

Based on your time on Top Chef, who’s the most talented cook there?
I like the past couple of dishes I’ve seen Eugene make. And you have to watch the Europeans. You know, if I lived in Italy my whole life, I’d probably have a lot of skill, too.

Tables Available at Abboccato and Alto; Scarpetta Fully Booked

Thu, 20 Nov 2008 16:00:01 -0500

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: High Italian.

A Voce (Menu)
212-545-8555
Two for eight? No
Best available: 9 p.m.

Abboccato (Menu)
212-265-4000
Two for eight? Yes

Alto (Menu)
212-308-1099
Two for eight? Yes

Bar Milano (Menu)
212-683-3035
Two for eight? No
Best available: 8:45 p.m.

'Cesca (Menu)
212-787-6300
Two for eight? No
Best available: 9:30 p.m.

Convivio
212-599-5045
Two for eight? No
Best available: 8:45 p.m.

Del Posto (Menu)
212-497-8090
Two for eight? No
Best available: 6:30 p.m.

Felidia (Menu)
212-758-1479
Two for eight? No
Best available: 9:15 p.m.

Insieme (Menu)
212-582-1310
Two for eight? No
Best available: 8:30 p.m.

Scarpetta
212-691-0555
Two for eight? No
Best available: Fully booked

Are Harlem’s Restaurants Worthy of Frank Bruni’s Attention?

Daniel Maurer — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 15:43:10 -0500

OH.

Portfolio columnist Zubin Jelveh finds it curious that, while East Harlem restaurants have the highest ratings on MenuPages, Frank Bruni has, per a Lexis-Nexis search, never reviewed one of them (meanwhile, the East Village popped up in Bruni’s articles 35 times). Our curmudgeonly commenter Sneakeater offers a reality check: “Not ONE of the restaurants you cite in Harlem or Washington Heights are worthy of a review by the New York Times’s main restaurant reviewer. You seem to have him confused with Bob Siestema of the Voice [Sneakeater has made a spelling mistake here — the man’s name is Sietsema] or the guys who do the New York Times’s ‘$25 and Under’ column.”

Meanwhile, Urbanite points to the “restaurant row” that has emerged at the West Harlem Piers and mentions a bidding war for another restaurant space (who knows, maybe Keith McNally is in on it!). And Uptown Flavor brings news of OH, a new private club, complete with backyard and cigar terrace, owned by O’Dell Holland of the Sugar Shack. The venue isn’t the first of its kind — this summer, a couple of Gordon Ramsay and Per Se alums opened a private dining spot, Recette, that, from the taste of the braised beef cheek with brown butter, chestnut terrine, and sultan chutney we had at City Harvest, is worthy of Bruni’s attention. But why close these hidden gems to walk-ins?

Dining Democracy [Odd Numbers/Portfolio]
OH! Harlem Gets a New Members Only VIP Lounge [Uptown Flavor]
A Restaurant Row Emerges in Harlem [Urbanite/amNY]

Tenjersey

Daniel Maurer — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 14:14:55 -0500

Like Fonzie jumping the shark, Tenjune is hopping the Hudson and opening the Chandelier Room in the new W Hotel in Hoboken. [NYP]

Strong Island

Daniel Maurer — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 14:00:18 -0500

If you’re an LIRR commuter, a Long Island restaurant blog has just launched. Pickings are slim so far (psychic medium dinner! Jimmy Buffet [sic] spotted!), but it's a resource nonetheless. [Dishing on Dining]

Truffle Kerfuffle: No Takers on 2.5 Pound Specimen

Daniel Maurer — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 13:44:33 -0500

Unsurprisingly, restaurateurs aren’t as truffle-mad as they were last year. It turns out that the $11,000 bidder on the giant two-and-a-half-pound truffle we told you about the other week was Nello, but the restaurant backed out of the purchase twice, and restaurants like Masa, Per Se, and Gilt didn’t go for it either — the forlorn seller, Tyler Gray of Mikuni Wild Harvest, says that Daniel offered a trifling $7,000! The truffle is now up for bids on Gothamist. A hundred bucks says Kurve buys the thing.

King Size Truffle Fails to Fetch Princely Sum [Gothamist]
Earlier: Buy It Now: ‘The Largest White Truffle to Land in the USA in the Last 3 Years’

Miami Chef Surprises Jaded New Yorkers With Honeycomb

Aileen Gallagher — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 13:31:45 -0500

Michael Schwartz's honeycomb showstopper.

Among the six courses served last night at a James Beard House dinner by Miami chef Michael Schwartz of Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, it was the honeycomb and La Tur cheese that prompted the most enthusiasm. Schwartz, who opened his restaurant in 2006 in the underfed Design District, has been lauded by no less than Frank Bruni and John Mariani, and even landed on the Heeb 100. His message of locally sourced, sustainable food sources may be familiar to New Yorkers, but the food was not, especially a pan-roasted golden tilefish. It was the La Tur cheese, Paradise Farms honeycomb, aged balsamic, and grilled walnut raisin bread (unjustly shown here) that best represented Schwartz’s food aesthetic. The dish looked beautiful and tasted wonderful — simple and wholesome and a joy to eat. If you’re headed to Miami for Art Basel next month or South Beach Wine & Food in February, book a table at Michael’s. You know what to order. For those of us stuck up here, we beg New York chefs: Steal this dish.

Will the New Knitting Factory Be a Mere Knitting Facsimile?

Daniel Maurer — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 13:15:40 -0500

Morgan Hotel Group, which serves $15 cocktails at Brasserie 44, may be saying “eff you” (in less polite terms) to the recession in its ads, but the Knitting Factory, when it moves to Brooklyn next year, will lay off all 65 of its staff members except for two managers. Actually, New York Press reports that the layoffs were announced back in April via notes attached to employee paychecks. Staffers described Knit honcho Jared Hoffman, ~~who was recently ousted himself~~, as a “clueless suit” and their “douchebag president.” The truth is, there have been internal grumblings about the Knitting Factory ever since John Zorn and other musicians who made the club what it was entered into a public feud with its founder, Michael Dorf, taking their acts to Tonic instead. With few of the original musicians or employees involved, and Dorf now off focusing on City Winery, and the club now moving to its third location, why even continue calling this place the Knitting Factory?

Correction: Jared Hoffman writes in from his Knitting Factory address to tell us that the New York Press was erroneous in reporting that he was recently ousted.

Knit Fit [NY Press]

City Winery Saving Itself for 2009, Will Also Be Music Venue

Alexandra Vallis — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 11:56:16 -0500

Don't drink while touring the steel fermentation tanks.

City Winery owner Michael Dorf revealed during a preview last night that his now-raw space in West Soho won’t open to the public till January. But when it does, the massive wine-making facility and live-music-venue hybrid will have a full restaurant. “Wine stewards” (not waiters) will take you through the wine list before helping you decide on small dishes and plates from an on-site Murray's Cheese counter, says Dorf. The 500-strong list of global bottles will take some navigating, but what's most exciting are the 50 vintages available by the glass. (You can taste a bit in advance when Jean-Luc le Dû hosts $100 tastings of Burgundy, Bordeaux, and then Champagne the first three Tuesdays in December.) Half of the 200 private barrels blended on-site have been filled, and head winemaker David Lecomte is saving the rest for a shipment of South American grapes come spring.

Dorf used the preview to announce his musical lineup at the venue: Joan Osborne headlines on New Year's Eve, and Steve Earle, Suzanne Vega, Rufus Wainwright, and Philip Glass will follow with about two shows scheduled per week. There will be "Pairings" every week, when music from a pair of artists (Raul Midon and Sonya Kitchell, or Calexico and Keren Ann) will be (obviously) matched with wines. But you can’t just buy tickets to these events. Dorf has devised a club of sorts, called “VinoFile,” with a $50 annual fee that can be put toward the $25 to $200 performances. But you don’t need tickets to go to Sunday brunch, when Margot Leverett and the Klezmer Mountain Boys will play.

Earlier: The 2008 Vintage [NYM]

City Winery,143 Varick St., at Vandam St.; 212-608-0555

Tapas Torture

Daniel Maurer — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 11:10:54 -0500

Note to Boqueria Soho: Please don’t put a mouthwatering potato omelette out near the hostess stand when the wait is half an hour for a party of two, and 90 minutes for a party of four, as it was at 8:30 last night. That’s just cruel.